mahalo nuiloaJapan is full of towns shaped by centuries of history, each with its own character born from the sea, mountains, and rivers that surround it. For seasoned travelers, visiting a place where traditional life still quietly exists, can be one of the most meaningful experiences.
This time, I’d like to introduce Tomonoura, a small port town in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima — a place where history, nature, and everyday life blend beautifully.
What Kind of Town Is Tomonoura?
Tomonoura is a picturesque port mentioned in Manyōshū, Japan’s oldest poetry anthology.
Ships once had to wait here for the right current because the tides in this area shift dramatically (flowing into the Seto Inland Sea at high tide and flowing out toward the open sea at low tide). For this reason, Tomonoura flourished during the Edo period (17th–19th century) as a “tide-waiting port.”
The coastline and nearby islands are designated as a National Scenic Area and part of a National Park.
Tomonoura’s historic townscape remains remarkably intact, earning a place in the “100 Best Historic Landscapes of Japan” in 2007. It is also the only port town in Japan where Edo-period port facilities still remain. Because of its beauty, Tomonoura has been used as a filming location for many movies and dramas, and it is known as the place where the idea of Studio Ghibli’s Ponyo was born.
How to Enjoy Tomonoura
Tomonoura is best explored on foot. The colors of the sky and sea change from morning to night, creating a different atmosphere every hour. Walk along the stone-paved streets, climb up to viewpoints overlooking the harbor, or simply sit by the water and watch the boats drift by — time seems to slow down here.
Cats lounge peacefully on the warm roads, completely relaxed and unbothered by passersby. Their calm presence reflects the gentle rhythm of this town.
You can also take a short ferry ride to the nearby uninhabited island, Sensuijima, which departs about three times an hour. Exploring the island’s trails is a refreshing way to enjoy nature.
For active travelers, sea kayaking, cycling, and trekking are also available.
Access
From Fukuyama Station (Shinkansen), take a bus for about 30 minutes to reach Tomonoura.
Where to Stay
Tomonoura has several small inns, but one I especially recommend is Ofuneyado Iroha, located right by the harbor. This wooden building has over 220 years of history and was once a ceramics shop. Its preservation and renovation were inspired by sketches from Studio Ghibli director Hayao Miyazaki, who wished to help protect the town’s historic scenery.
The inn has only two guest rooms, both warm and intimate like an attic hideaway. The stone bath adds to the nostalgic charm.
Dinner features local vegetables, tai (sea bream) dishes such as tai chazuke and tai kabuto-ni, all deeply comforting and full of regional flavor.
After dinner, take a quiet walk along the harbor. You’ll hear nothing but the soft glow of lamps and the gentle sound of waves.
Wake up early, and you may see fishing boats gliding across the sparkling water. Fishermen selling freshly caught fish chat cheerfully with local mothers — a glimpse of everyday life in this peaceful town.
What to Eat
As a port town, Tomonoura is known for fresh seafood, especially tai (sea bream). Tai chazuke and simmered tai are must-try dishes.
You can also enjoy seafood pizza, ramen made with fish broth, and many cozy cafés.
Tomonoura is home to four breweries of Homeishu, a traditional herbal liqueur believed to promote health. Each brewery has its own flavor, so tasting and comparing them is part of the fun.
A Town Wrapped in the Calm of the Seto Inland Sea
In Tomonoura, everyday life blends seamlessly with the scenery. Time flows gently, as if the town wakes with the sunrise and rests with the sunset.
If you let yourself slow down and follow the natural rhythm of the sea and sky, you may rediscover a sense of peace you didn’t realize you had lost.
Tomonoura is a place where quiet moments become precious memories — a town that welcomes you with its warmth, history, and timeless beauty.
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