The Hakone Old Tokaido was known as the “greatest challenge” among the routes maintained by the Edo Shogunate. In 2018, it was designated as a Japan Heritage site under the name “Hakone Hachiri: The Eternal Stone-Paved Road Where Travelers’ Footprints Remain,” and the traces of Edo-period travel, such as stone pavements, cedar-lined paths, milestone mounds, and the post town of Hatajuku, still quietly breathe today.
Even though it is a day trip from the city center, the moment you start walking, you get the feeling that “time is rewinding.” Here, we introduce a hiking course where you can slowly savor the charm of the Hakone Old Tokaido.
Access: From Tokyo to Hakone-Yumoto
Take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara. From there, transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway, and you will arrive at Hakone-Yumoto in just about an hour.
This time, we will start walking from the Sukumogawa Nature Trail, which is about a 14-minute bus ride from Hakone-Yumoto. This place is like the “gateway to silence” of the old road.
The Hakone hiking map is here.
Sukumogawa → Hatajuku (approx. 2km / approx. 1 hour)
As you enter the forest while listening to the murmuring of the Sukumo River, the air turns cool. The breeze passing through the trees is pleasant, making this a cool section even in summer.
Crossing the log bridge, the sound of the river gradually fades, and the scent of the forest becomes richer. On days when the water level is high and the log bridge cannot be used, take the detour route that crosses the bridge next to the power plant.
Crossing the prefectural road, the stairs of “Wariishizaka” appear, and the stone pavement begins from here.
The moss-covered stone pavement is damp and soft, and with every step, you can’t help but imagine, “Did travelers from the Edo period walk on these stones too?”
After climbing up while listening to the sound of a small waterfall, you arrive at the post town of Hatajuku.
With shops selling marquetry and soba noodle restaurants lined up, there is a warmth that seems to welcome travelers.
Hatajuku → Amazake-chaya (approx. 2.5km / approx. 1 hour)
Passing the milestone mound at the edge of Hatajuku, the silence typical of the old road returns.
This is a section where the stone-paved ascents and descents continue, and the depth of the forest increases.
As you climb the winding switchbacks of Nanamagari, light filters through the gaps in the trees, and beyond them, the Kashinokizaka bus stop stands quietly.
The steep stairs on the left are so sharp they feel like a test from the mountain. Once you catch your breath and reach the top, you emerge below the Miharashi Tea House, where a bench in the shade gently invites travelers to rest.
Cross the wooden bridge to reach the ‘Sarusuberi-zaka’ bus stop.
Climb the stairs on the opposite side, and the mountains of Hakone will softly reveal themselves.
Continue up the gentle slope of Oikomi-zaka to arrive at the Amazake Tea House, which has been in business for over 300 years.
The amazake, made using traditional methods, has a gentle flavor that slowly warms the body.
The chikara-mochi (power rice cakes) also soothe the fatigue of the journey.
Amazake Tea House → Hakone Shrine (approx. 2km, approx. 40 minutes)
After leaving the Amazake Tea House, go up a gentle incline and cross the prefectural road; you will find a sign for the Hakone Old Tokaido Road, and the stone-paved ascent continues once more.
Along the way, there is a monument to a packhorse driver’s song inscribed with the words, ‘The eight ri of Hakone are crossed by horse, but the Oi River is impossible to cross.’ You can almost feel the voices of Edo-period travelers soaked into the stone.
As you descend the steep stone steps of Gongen-zaka, your view suddenly opens up, and Lake Ashi spreads out in blue.
The breeze blowing across the lake surface is pleasant, as if quietly signaling the end of the journey.
Once you cross the national highway, you are almost at Hakone Shrine. Walk along the approach path enveloped in deep forest, pass through the red torii gate, and you have reached the goal of your hike.
Summary: The Hakone Old Tokaido Road is a ‘Story of a Walking Journey’
Total distance: approx. 6km, approx. 3 hours
Hiking Tips
- Stone pavements, cedar avenues, waterfalls, post towns, and amazake teahouses… a path where stories accumulate the more you walk.
- Be careful on rainy days or if it rained the day before, as the stone pavement can be slippery.
- Trekking shoes or trail running shoes are recommended.
- For bear safety and injury prevention, it is safer to walk in a group.
- There are sections where the old road intersects with the prefectural road, so please be careful of cars when walking on the prefectural road.
The Hakone Old Tokaido Road is more than just a hike.
With every step you take, the breath of Edo-period travelers gently draws near.
The scent of the forest, the dampness of the moss, the coldness of the stone pavement, the warmth of the amazake.
All of these will quietly remain in your heart as memories of your journey.
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If you are thinking of designing your own special trip and discovering hidden charms cherished by the locals, please feel free to contact us.
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